机械表一直是一个老生常谈,常谈常新的话题。虽然石英表和智能手表都比较精准,功能也多,但是对于很多哪怕不是资深表迷,但是要出席一些正式场合活动的朋友而言,机械表仍然是不太容易被替代的饰品,所以很多朋友依然要面对机械表这个对象,今天就把一些关于机械表的问题再次和大家分享,尤其是即将入手机械表或刚入手不久的新人朋友们。

The mechanical watch has always been a cliche, often a new topic. Although quartz watches and smart watches are more accurate and functional, but for many even if not senior watch fans, but to attend some formal events friends, mechanical watch is still not easy to replace the jewelry, so many friends still have to face the mechanical watch this object, today will be some of the mechanical watch questions to share with you again, especially the upcoming mechanical watch or new friends.

  宝玑经典系列7787BR/29/9V6腕表,自动机械机芯,18k玫瑰金材质,具备月相和动力储备显示功能,表径39毫米。

Po Ji Classic Series 7787 BR\/29\/9 V6 Wrist Watch, automatic mechanical movement,18k rose gold material, with monthly phase and power reserve display function, ND 39mm.

  所谓机械表,简单说就是完全通过发条和齿轮等内部机械结构驱动,而不是电池、光能或其它能量驱动的钟表,它又分为手动机械表和自动机械表两种,顾名思义,不再展开说明。我们都知道,很多朋友很喜欢机械腕表,不管是调校的过程,还是观察机芯的细节,倾听机芯的声音等等都是一种享受。殊不知,机械机芯的核心部分是擒纵机构,表哥称其为机芯的机芯。因为擒纵机构可以让动力进行规律的周期运动,这也是机械钟表可以规律走时或计时的核心所在。

The so-called mechanical watch, in short, is driven entirely by internal mechanical structures such as clocking and gearing, rather than by batteries, light energy or other energy-driven clocks, which are divided into manual mechanical watch and automatic mechanical table, as the name implies, no longer expand the description. As we all know, a lot of friends love the mechanical watch, whether it's the adjustment process or the observation of the details of the movement, listening to the sound of the movement and so on is a pleasure. However, the core of the mechanical movement is the capture mechanism, cousin called it the movement of the movement. Because the escapement mechanism allows the movement of the motion to a regular cycle, this is also the core of the mechanical clock to move or time.

  擒,将主传动的运动锁定(擒住),此时,钟表的主传动链是锁定的;纵,就是以震荡系统的一部分势能,开启(放开)主传动链运动,同时从主传动链中取回一定的能量以维持震荡系统的工作。现代意义上的擒纵机构最早诞生于15世纪,之后逐渐进化到现在的各种样子,时至今日,在基本原理的基础上已经衍生出数百种擒纵机构在现代钟表上使用,维持各类机械钟表规律性的周期“运动”(走时或计时)。

The movement of the main drive is locked (captured). At this point, the main transmission chain of the clock is locked; longitudinally, the motion of the main transmission chain is turned on (released) as part of the potential energy of the oscillation system, and a certain amount of energy is retrieved from the main transmission chain to maintain the operation of the oscillation system. The modern sense of the capture mechanism was first born in the 15th century, and then gradually evolved to the present appearance, to this day, on the basis of the basic principles have been derived from the use of hundreds of capture and control in modern clocks, to maintain the various mechanical clock regular cycle \"movement \"(walking or timing).

  在种类繁多的擒纵机构当中,目前使用最普遍的是由英国人ThomasMudge在18世纪中期发明的杠杆式擒纵机构。

Among a wide variety of capture mechanisms, the most commonly used is the lever-type capture mechanism invented by the British Thomas Mudge in the mid-18th century.

  1、检查能否自动起摆,方法是将放松发条停走的表轻轻地拿在手里,慢慢上条,同时注视秒针,秒针应在上发条的一开始就跟着转动,否则就不符合标准。

Check to see if you can swing it automatically by holding the wind-down watch lightly in your hand and slowly trimming it while looking at the second hand, which should follow at the beginning of the clock, otherwise it will not meet the standard.

  2、检查表在各种位置的声音,上几圈发条之后,把表面朝上、朝下,柄头朝上、朝下、朝左、朝右,倾听其在各方位的频率节拍都应基本一致,上足发条后,声音应清脆无杂音。

The sound of the checklist in all places, after a few circles of clockwork, the surface up, down, handle up, down, left, right, listening to its frequency in all directions should be basically the same, the sound should be crisp and no noise after the sound.

  4、需要注意的是,由于表在装配调和检验时,都是采用“静态调试”,戴在手上后因手臂运动会造成手表的动态误差,经常使走时偏慢,此外,手表使用时间长了也会日渐偏慢。因此,在“静态调试”时略快几秒比较合适。

It is important to note that since the watch is statically debugged in assembly and checking, the movement of the arm on the hand will cause the watch's dynamic error, which often makes the walking time slow. Therefore, a few seconds faster in \"static debugging\" is more appropriate.

  朗格萨克森系列铂金腕表,自动机械机芯,铂金材质,具备日期显示、大日历、万年历、月相等功能,表径毫米。

Langsackson series platinum watch, automatic mechanical movement, platinum material, with date display, large calendar, calendar, month equal functions, ND mm.

  1、每天最好在固定时间上发条(针对手动机械表),一次上足。上发条转动表把快慢要适当,不要上得太紧。太紧了,发条容易被发条盒里的油粘住。当发条放松的时候,因弹力过大就容易被折断。

It's best to wind the clock at a fixed time every day. The clockwise turn the meter properly and don't get too tight. It's so tight that the clockwork is easily stuck to the oil in the box. When the wind is loose, it is easy to break because the elastic force is too large.

  2、在手表机芯零件中最“娇气”的,当属于摆轮和游丝。摆轮是因为它的轴椎非常的细,大约只有,摆轮在手表内做高速震荡旋转,摆轮的整个质量都要靠它来支撑。所以,手表最忌猛烈地震动,打球或用手击东西时,最好把它取下来。此外,手表也怕水浸,因此,洗衣服、洗手或做其他和水接触的工作时,最好把手表取下来。如果手表的表玻璃出现雾气或水点,应及时检修,擦去雾气水点,以免损害机芯。

The most delicate part of a watch's movement should belong to the wheel and the silk. Pendulum is because its shaft is very thin, about only, the pendulum in the watch to do high-speed shock rotation, the entire quality of the wheel is supported by it. Therefore, the watch most bogey violent vibration, play or hit things with the hand, it is best to take it off. In addition, watches are also afraid of flooding, so it is best to remove the watch when washing clothes, washing hands or doing other work in contact with water. If the watch glass fog or water point, should be timely repair, wipe off the fog water point, so as not to damage the movement.

  4、机械手表常见故障就是走时不准确,尤其是当手表机芯不慎被磁化的时候,所以,手表不戴时,不要将手表放在电视机、音响等电器上,以免被扬声器的磁铁所磁化,影响走时。另外,手表更不宜与樟脑放在一起,因为樟脑是一种极易挥发的物质,容易使机油凝固。

The common malfunction of mechanical watches is that the time of walking is not accurate, especially when the movement of the watch is magnetized carelessly, so when the watch is not worn, do not put the watch on the TV, audio and other electrical appliances, so as not to be magnetized by the magnet of the speaker, which affects the time of walking. In addition, the watch is more inappropriate to put together with camphor, because camphor is a highly volatile substance, easy to make oil solidified.

  5,注意保护表镜,应避免和尖硬锋利的物质擦碰,避免受高压高热及化学试剂的腐蚀,以免受到损伤。若划有轻微痕迹,可将牙膏涂在绒布上,在表镜上面来回摩擦,即可消除划迹。切忌用酒精擦拭,避免表镜与酒精起化学作用而碎裂。

5. Take care to protect the mirror and avoid rubbing against sharp and sharp materials. Avoid corrosion by high-pressure heat and chemical reagents. If there is a slight mark, you can apply toothpaste on the flannelette, on the mirror back and forth friction, you can eliminate the scratch. Do not use alcohol wipe, avoid mirror and alcohol to play a chemical role in fragmentation.

  正确认识机械表对于很多人来说都是很重要的,尤其是当面对一些看似“离奇”的悖论时。之前在查看一些钟表资料时,发现了万国表介绍自己的一段文字“IWC的创办人是美国波士顿工程师佛罗伦汀·琼斯(Florentine),他在莱茵河畔的厂房中创立了瑞士最早期的机械制表工厂,实现了他的新颖构想:以机械取代部分人工制造出更精确的零件,而後由一流的表师装配成品质超凡的表。”

Proper understanding of mechanical watches is important to many people, especially in the face of seemingly bizarre paradoxes. \"IWC was founded by Florentine Jones, a Boston-based engineer who founded Switzerland's earliest mechanical watchmaking plant in his factory on the Rhine River, fulfilling his novel idea of replacing parts with machinery to produce more precise parts artificially, and then assembling them into tables of exceptional quality.

  看到这句话,你们有什么感觉?伟大吗?很多人不是说就喜欢纯手工打造的机械表吗?机械取代部分人工可以吗?或者值得这么“大声宣扬”吗?卖出天价的几块百达翡丽神表,包括今年推出的价值250万美元的大师弦音表(GrandmasterChime),不是都宣称纯手工制作,区区几块表都要耗时好几年才能完成吗?然后把很多人感动的稀里哗啦的,还有很多人都情不自禁地袒露心声“喜欢、超爱、神表、梦中情表、么么哒……”因为这里面就蕴含着一些看似很矛盾的“悖论”。

How do you feel when you see this? Great? Don't a lot of people just like hand - made mechanical watches? is it possible to replace part of the manual mechanically? Or is it worth the \"loud talk \"? Aren't all the pricey Patek Philippe watches, including this year's $2.5 million Grandmaster Chime, all claiming to be purely handmade, and don't they take years to complete? And then a lot of people are moved, and a lot of people can't help but reveal that \"like, love, god, dream love, what...\" because there are some seemingly contradictory\" paradoxes.

  经常提到的这枚发行价就高达250万美元的神表GrandmasterChime据称历经7年研发,全球仅限量推出7枚(6枚公开发售,1枚则陈列于百达翡丽博物馆用于珍藏展示),甚至更不可思议的是,百达翡丽总裁ThierryStern还要通过对客户的面试来决定他们是否为大师弦音表的合适人选,Stern先生在接受CNBC采访时甚至这么说:只有真正热爱手表并长久以来为手表倾注热情的人才有资格拥有大师弦音表。

The $2.5 million watch, which is often mentioned, is supposed to have been developed for seven years (six for sale and one for display at the Patek Philippe Museum), and even more improbably, by interviewing clients, its president, Thierry Stern, Mr. Stern, even said in an interview with CNBC that only those who truly love watches and have long been enthusiastic about them, have qualified master chords.

  况且,就算已经摒弃日内瓦标识等通用高级认证标准而完全采用自家标准的百达翡丽再精准,恐怕也和一枚很普通的电子表的精准度差很多,请问效率何在?完全采用机械化生产,采用电子表芯,一年生产个几百万,上千万手表不是更有效率吗,而且还很便宜,这些钟表品牌都在想什么呢?

Moreover, even if has abandoned the Geneva logo and other general high-level certification standards and fully adopted their own standards of Patek Philippe again accurate, I am afraid and a very common electronic watch accuracy is much worse, what is the efficiency? Aren't tens of millions of watches produced a year in fully mechanized production, using electronic watch cores, and aren't tens of millions of watches more efficient and cheap?

  话说也不止一个朋友和我提出了这样的问题,因为他们很困惑,觉得不可思议,当你们这些也多少号称懂表的人遇到这样的问题,你们会怎么回答呢?其实也很简单,就一句话,因为百达翡丽是艺术品。对此,坊间有一句话说的很好“劳力士以上是艺术品,劳力士以下是实用品”。

More than one friend and I asked the question, because they were confused and unbelievable, and how would you answer the question when those of you who know the watch as much as you do? Actually also very simple, just one sentence, because Patek Philippe is the artwork. There is a good saying for this,\" Rolex above is art, Rolex below is practical.\"

  这样的问题恐怕不止是被别人问到那么简单,相信也是很多表迷经常扪心自问的问题,也就是我们开头提到的那句话“以机械取代部分人工制造出更精确的零件”让人颇有矛盾感的症结之所在,喜欢机械表,但是不喜欢机械生产出来的表。何解?请问喜欢万国表的表迷们,当然,也不止是万国表的表迷,相信很多奢华等级以上的腕表品牌表迷都应该如实面对这样的问题。

It's more than just a simple question to be asked, and it's a question that many fans often ask themselves, the paradox of the phrase we begin with,\" Mechanically replacing parts to produce more precise ones \", is that mechanical watches, but not mechanical ones. What is the solution? I would like to ask the world watch fans, of course, is not only the world watch fans, I believe that many luxury class watch brand fans should face such a problem.

  其实这个问题就涉及到了机械钟表问世几百年来的一个宏观背景,以前计量时间都是用日晷、沙漏等土办法,后来因为擒纵技术的突破,机械钟表就走上了历史舞台,但是起初的机械钟表因为技术相对落后,走时不准或体型笨重也是突出问题。随着技术的不断进步,机械钟表的走时精准度逐渐提高,体型也不断变小,应用也越来越广泛,那些显眼的怀表和挂表等也不仅仅再是贵族富人们的装点之物了,换句话说就是逐渐脱胎为精密仪器,小而精。

In fact, this problem involves the mechanical clock has been a macro background for hundreds of years, before the measurement of time with sundial, hourglass and other earthy methods, later because of the breakthrough in capture and control technology, mechanical clock on the stage of history, but the initial mechanical clock because of relatively backward technology, walking time is not allowed or heavy is also a prominent problem. With the development of technology, the precision of mechanical clocks gradually improves, the body size becomes smaller and more widely used, and the conspicuous pocket watch and hanging watch are not only the decoration of aristocratic rich people, in other words, gradually born out of precision instruments, small and refined.

  这个时候,机械表对于零部件的要求当然就更加苛刻和严密了,一些细微到很小很小的零部件和精细的测量、设计等也就不能再只是依靠人的手工和眼睛了,甚至有的工作,光靠人的手工也根本不能完成了。但是为了维持高级制表作为艺术品的属性,还有很多工序,尤其是组装、打磨、雕花、镶嵌、测试等环节仍然是必须由制表大师、镶嵌大师等人工完成,也只有这样才可以称为艺术品。由此可见,万国表讲的那句话其实并不矛盾,你们觉得呢?

At this time, of course, the mechanical watch on the parts of the requirements are more stringent and strict, some small to very small parts and fine measurement, design and so on can no longer rely on human hand and eyes, even some work, only rely on human handwork cannot be completed. But in order to maintain the high-level tabulation as the property of the art, there are still a lot of processes, especially assembly, grinding, carving, mosaic, testing and other links are still necessary by the master tabulation, mosaic master and other manual completion, but also only in this way can be called art. Thus it can be seen that the words of the Universal Table are not contradictory, do you think?

  有些看似矛盾的所谓悖论其实并不是毫无道理,需要我们认真思考其所蕴含的深层意义,然后或许就会有一种“豁然开朗”的感觉。另外,虽然机械表很有特色,也非常有魅力,但是也相对比较娇气,尤其是打算买或已经买了比较名贵机械表的朋友,一定要特别注意关于机械表的一些基本问题,以免因为疏忽破坏了自己的好心情。

Some seemingly contradictory so-called paradoxes are not unreasonable, we need to seriously consider the deep meaning, and then there may be a sense of \"suddenly open-minded \". In addition, although the mechanical watch is very characteristic, but also very attractive, but also relatively more delicate, especially intended to buy or have bought more expensive mechanical watch friends, must pay special attention to some of the basic problems about the mechanical watch, so as not to inadvertently destroy their own good mood.

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